Saturday, October 26, 2019

A Tour of Vancouver Island

I am finally writing a long-promised post about our beautiful summer vacation. We have now lived on Vancouver Island for more than two years. We decided that this summer, it was time to get to know our new home a little better.

We live along the east coast of the Island in an area that is considered to be the central part of the Island (even though it's quite close to the southern end). In late July, we set off in our truck and camper rig to explore the less-travelled roads of southern Vancouver Island.

Cowichan Valley

Our first destination was the Cowichan Valley. We camped for three nights along the south shore of beautiful Lake Cowichan.

View of Lake Cowichan from our Back Door
Rob's Waders
There were two small islands in the lake not far from where we camped. We went out in our belly boats and spent several hours fishing around and between the two islands. We didn't get a single bite. The people camping next to us caught some fish, though. They said the fish were out in the middle of the lake and very deep.

Most of the time we were at Lake Cowichan, it was quite windy. So we did some short hikes and read books on the beach and enjoyed camper cuisine.

Hiking a Section of the Trans Canada Trail

On our last day, we drove into the community of Cowichan Lake, and explored some of the rail trails -- old railway lines that have been turned into hiking trails -- that wind through the area. We hiked a section of the Trans Canada Trail.

The Trans Canada Trail is a network of trails that stretches all across Canada, with many parts still under development. Over the years, I have hiked or cycled on several segments of this trail, especially in the Greater Vancouver area, Nanaimo, and in the Kettle Valley.

The section we were on runs between Cowichan Lake and Shawnigan Lake, about 20 kilometers. (We only went about 5 km, then doubled back).

Lizard Lake

Old Growth Stump
 Leaving Cowichan Lake, we followed the Pacific Marine Highway southwest toward Port Renfrew on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Along the way, we stopped and camped at a beautiful little campground at Lizard Lake. The lake got its name because of the salamanders that live in the lake. I sat quietly beside the water peering in and was rewarded by seeing a couple of the salamanders swimming in the lake water.

There is a nice hiking trail all around the lake. We saw evidence of past logging activity in the form of giant stumps. The lake is stocked with rainbow trout, and we enjoyed fishing in our belly boats. As well, there is a swimming beach.

Lush Vegetation Along the Trail
Port Renfrew, Botanical Beach, and Botany Bay

Our next stop was Port Refrew. This campground brought on nostalgia, as we camped beside the Gordon River, exactly where I camped nearly 40 years ago when I was setting off to hike the West Coast Trail. The West Coast Trail is a 5-7 day backpacking route through the Pacific Rim Park on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Is is famous as a world destination for backpacking.

Rob and I spent an afternoon hiking a section of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail starting at Botanical Beach, which is its most westerly trail head. This was a real highlight of the holiday for me. I loved the rock formations, the tidal pools, and the wild beaches. Botanical Beach is reported to be one of the richest areas of marine tide pool life on the west coast of the Island.

 

























Botanical Beach
Kelp Tangles



















Here are two pictures of Rob.
 
He is hiking over the layers of rock to the tide pools. In the other photo, if you look past the pile of kelp, you will see him sitting on the rocks.

We enjoyed our lunch sitting on the rocks, basking in the sun, and absorbing the sounds and sights of the shore.
Rock Formations


Exploring the Beach
Rock Stack, Log, and Tidal Pools
This was an excellent afternoon. It was the first time that I have hiked any part of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. I would like to hike the whole 47 kilometers of the trail someday, maybe section by section.

We finished our hike by doubling back to where we started, and then hiking the Botanical Beach to Botany Bay 2.8 km loop.

After that, it was time for some refreshments. So off we went to the Port Refrew Hotel for a pint and some delicious west coast seafood.

 Jordan River and Mystic Beach

We spent the last few days of the trip at Jordan River, camped right along the beach looking south over the Juan de Fuca Strait at the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State. Jordan River is a surfer's paradise in the fall and winter when the waves are big. But at the beginning of August, there were no surfers to be seen -- just a lot of seagulls.

We spent an afternoon hiking into Mystic Beach, another famous destination along the Juan de Fuca Strait.
Mystic Beach
The Trail is Badly Eroded

Unfortunately, the hike has become too popular. The trail has been severely eroded, and there were a lot of people along the trail and at the beach. It is a beautiful beach, however. Also, we got to cross a suspension bridge along the trail.

We really loved our beach campsite at Jordan River. There was a quaint coffee shop up the road, and a Little Free Library. That was a good thing because I had read all the books I brought and was in need of more reading material!

Last Night at Jordan River
After more than a week on the road, we headed for home. We bypassed Victoria, not in the mood for an urban experience after the peacefulness of the wilderness. But, our holiday wasn't finished yet! We spent a few days at home gardening and doing laundry, then we headed off on another adventure. So, dare I say, there's more to come?

18 comments:

  1. Thank you for the tour and beautiful photos, Jude. You sure live on a beautiful island with plenty of nature to explore. I'd love to visit Botanical Beach and walk part of the trail. The Pacific Rim Park is an amazing place. I'm glad that it's in Canada so I can visit it again.

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    1. Hi Natalie. There is so much to see here on Vancouver Island. You saw a few of the highlights when you were here. For me, the really special parts of the Island are off the beaten track in the wilderness areas. Even after our weeks of exploration this summer, we still have so much left to discover!

      Jude

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  2. Hi, Jude - What a beautiful introduction to just some parts of Vancouver Island that so many people never hear about. You are absolutely right -- there is so much to discover here!
    I love the teaser that you left us with at the end. I look forward to reading your next installment!

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    1. Donna, I’m really enjoying getting to know Vancouver Island a little better. Even in the southern corner, we didn’t visit everything we would like to see, like Nitinat Lake, and the Sooke Potholes, and the Galloping Goose Trail. There is so much to explore.

      Jude

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  3. What a beautiful trip, Jude! And, is there any better way than doing it in a small RV? :-) It’s so nice you managed to take your time and settle in at a few places, to relax, explore, and hike. I was hoping for a photo of your belly boats. I have no idea what they look like!

    Looking forward to your next adventure and photos!

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    1. Hi Liesbet. I somehow forgot to take any photos of us in our belly boats. However, I have written about them before. You can look under the “fishing” tag. Here’s a link that shows a picture:
      http://gideonsockpuppet.blogspot.com/2018/07/camping-with-kiddles.html

      They are basically big inner tubes covered with fabric and with a seat in the centre. You have to wear waders and swim fins to use them. You propel yourself backwards through the water by kicking your fins. It’s a very fun, low tech way to get out in the water. They move quite slowly though, so you can’t go far. Also, they are hard to maneuver if a wind comes up, so we tend to stay fairly close to shore.

      Jude

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    2. Aha! Now it makes sense. I must have started following your blog right after this post! :-)

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  4. Looks idyllic. The waders gave me a bit of a turn though …

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    1. Yes, they look rather dead. My waders were hanging on the other side of the camper door.

      Jude

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  5. I have been looking forward to reading about your summer vacation, Jude. I cannot believe you have been here only for under three years. You seem well settled into your community.

    You remind me how I love everything about camping. Hikes, lakes, ocean, books, camping food.

    We stopped at Lizard Lake and Fairy Lake when we took the Pacific Marine Highway route home from Gordon Bay, Cowichan Lake. We didn’t camp there, although it looked very pretty and tranquil on the day we were there. I have not done the West Coast Trail. Friends and family say it was a life-changing experience.

    I strongly encourage visitors new to the Island to visit Botanical Beach. The area is unique and never disappoints.

    We stopped at Bridgeman’s in Port Renfrew for a pint and seafood. The restaurants are likely all good.

    Another adventure? Great post and photos, Jude!

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    1. Hi Erica. Yes, we were exploring some areas that were close to home for you. I think we might have been at Lake Cowichan the same weekend as you, but at a different campground, and we checked into the Lizard Lake campground late in the afternoon on Sunday, so we probably just missed you there too.

      I was in my twenties when I hiked the West Coast Trail, and it was an amazing experience. We went to Port Alberni and left our car there, then took the E&N Railway to Sooke. We camped on the beach at Sooke, then hitch-hiked the next day to Port Renfrew. We camped at the campground at the Gordon River Estuary. Then we hiked the trail. I must have been very fit, as it only took us four days. Then from the trailhead near the Bamfield Marine Station, we hitch-hiked to Port Alberni. Yes, those were the days when people still hitch-hiked!

      Jude

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  6. Quite the story, Jude, on your West Coast Trail experience. Four days is amazing. Yet, you were fit. You still are!

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    1. Thanks, Erica - very kind of you to say that. In my head, I’m still in my twenties, but these days I know I couldn’t hike 25 kilometres a day or more climbing ladders up cliffs with a 35 pound backpack on my back!

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  7. Hi Jude,
    I loved reading about your camping adventure. Sometimes the best ones are not far from home!
    I have read so much from the Vancouver Island bloggers that it is on my "list" of destinations. We hope to travel there next year when we take our new RV across the continent.
    Lovely photos!

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    1. Hi, thanks for your comment. Yes, I feel very lucky to live in such a beautiful place, and getting to know some bloggers who live near by has been great. I have to give full credit to Donna from Retirement Reflections, as she is the sociable person who has organized all the blogger get togethers. When you’re in the area, be sure to reach out to some of us.

      Jude

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  8. Wow! It looks amazing! The photo is just super!
    I am inspired! Thanks for sharing!

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